Full Brim Hard Hat with Built-In Eye Shield & Earmuffs – Vented HDPE Safety Helmet, ANSI Z89.1 Type I Class C
Full Brim Hard Hat with Built-In Eye Shield & Earmuffs – Vented HDPE Safety Helmet, ANSI Z89.1 Type I Class C
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The eye and ear protection you actually wear is the kind that never leaves the hat
Nobody skips safety glasses because they don't own a pair. They skip them because the pair is in the truck, or on the bench, or in a pocket somewhere with a scratch across one lens. Same story with earmuffs. Three separate things to carry means three separate chances to work without them.
This is one shell with the other two already on it. A clear eye shield lives on a hinge under the front brim and pulls down over your eyes with one finger. Two earmuff cups ride on swing arms on either side and rotate down over your ears, or up and out of the way when you need to hear someone. You put the hat on and everything you need is already there.
What is actually molded into the shell
Head protection is one of the few things you buy where the rating matters more than the review. So here is the marking, photographed off the inside of the shell rather than retyped from a supplier sheet.
Class C means this hat offers no protection from electrical contact. The vents in the crown are what make it comfortable, and they are also why it can never be electrically insulating — a vented shell has openings straight through it. If any part of your work involves live conductors, you need a Class E hat, and that is a different, unvented product.
Type I is the rating for a blow landing on the crown. It is the standard rating for construction, groundwork, warehousing and general site work in the US. It is not Type II, which adds off-center and lateral impact. If your hazard is being struck from the side, look for a Type II shell.
The eye shield
The lens is marked ANSI Z87+ and 1F CE EN166. The plus is the part worth knowing: under Z87.1, a bare "Z87" lens meets the basic impact test, and Z87+ is the high-impact designation. The EN166 part reads optical class 1 with an F impact grade.
It pulls down on two pivots under the brim and pushes back up under the brim when you don't want it. Because it stows into the shell rather than folding into a case, it does not get sat on, and it does not get left behind.
It is a shield, not a sealed goggle. The listing has historically called these "goggles" and that word oversells them. This lens curves in front of your face and is open around the edges. It stops what flies at you. It will not keep out fine airborne dust that drifts in from the side, and it is not a chemical splash barrier. If you need a seal against your face, you need actual goggles.
The earmuffs, and what we cannot tell you about them
Two cups on sprung swing arms, mounted to a rail on each side of the shell. They rotate down onto your ears and back up clear of them, so you can take a question from someone without stripping your hat off. The cups are marked CE 2777 and EN 352-3, which is the European standard for earmuffs attached to an industrial safety helmet.
There is no NRR published for these muffs, so we are not going to quote one. In the US, hearing protection is sold with an EPA-required Noise Reduction Rating on the package, and this product does not carry one. The EN 352-3 marking tells you the cups were built and tested to a helmet-mounted earmuff standard; it does not, on its own, tell you how many decibels they take off. Nobody should choose hearing protection for a genuinely loud job from a number that the seller invented, so we have left it blank rather than fill it in. Treat these as a real convenience for general site noise, and if you are working around sustained high noise, pick your hearing protection on a published, labeled rating.
Why the full brim, and not a cap
A cap-style hard hat has a peak at the front and nothing anywhere else. A full brim runs the whole way around. In practice that means three things: rain runs off behind your collar instead of down it, the sun is off the back of your neck and your ears all afternoon, and grit knocked loose above you lands on the brim and rolls off rather than going down your shirt.
The trade is bulk. A full brim is wider, and in tight framing or a crawl space it will catch on things a cap-style shell would clear.
Fit and adjustment
- Ratchet wheel at the back. Thumb it tighter or looser without taking the hat off, and it works with gloves on.
- Fits 21 in to 24.8 in of head circumference — measure around your forehead, just above your ears.
- Six-point suspension with a textile cradle, so the load spreads instead of sitting on one ring.
- Crown vents open and close by pushing the plugs with a thumb.
- Chin strap with a molded chin cup, adjustable, and removable if you don't want it.
About the finishes
Nine to choose from. Six are solid colors — white, black, hi-vis green, orange, red and blue. The other three are hydro-dipped with a carbon-weave pattern, in white, gray and black.
To be clear about what you are buying: the carbon-look finishes are a printed pattern on the same HDPE shell. There is no carbon fiber in this helmet. The pattern is cosmetic and the rating is identical across all nine.
In the box
- One full brim safety helmet, with the eye shield and both earmuffs already fitted
The shield and the muffs are part of the helmet as it ships. There is no separate bag of parts and nothing to assemble.
When this is the wrong hat
We would rather you bought the right thing somewhere else than the wrong thing here.
- Live electrical work. Class C. Get a Class E.
- Side-impact hazards. Type I is a crown rating. Get a Type II.
- Chainsaw and brush cutting. That job wants a mesh visor and hearing protection chosen on a stated rating, not a clear shield.
- Climbing, rope access, confined space and technical rescue. Those use a retained climbing-style helmet to a different standard entirely. Despite what this listing used to say, a full brim Type I hard hat is not rescue equipment.
- Chemical splash. The shield is not sealed to your face.
Looking after it
- Warm water and mild soap. Solvents, gasoline and bleach attack polyethylene.
- Don't drill it, don't paint it, and don't carry it on the parcel shelf of a car — sustained UV and heat age the shell.
- Replace it after any real impact, even if the shell looks fine, and check the molded date wheels so you know how old it is.
