Car Splitter Cigarette Lighter Socket

$26.99

~~$34.99~~ $26.99

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Model A — 3 sockets + 2 USB B — 3 sockets + 2 USB + voltmeter C — voltmeter + 2.3 ft cord Cable only — 2-in-1 Cable only — 3-in-1

Bundle Splitter only Add the 2-in-1 cable Add the 3-in-1 cable Cable on its own

One socket. Three things that need power.

Most cars still give you a single 12V socket, and by the time the phone mount is charging, the dash cam is running and someone in the back wants a turn, you are unplugging one thing to plug in another. On a long drive that happens all day.

This splits that one socket into three, and adds two USB ports on the side. Everything stays plugged in. Nobody negotiates.

The three-socket splitter plugged into a car's centre console 12V socket with its sockets lit blue at dusk

Each socket has its own switch

Three small buttons on the top, one per socket, each with a lit ring so you can see at a glance what is drawing power. It matters more than it sounds: a dash cam or a cooler left live on an accessory socket will keep pulling from the battery in some cars after the engine is off. Being able to kill one line without unplugging the others is the difference between a habit and a flat battery.

Close view of the two USB-A ports and the three round switches with illuminated blue rings

The voltmeter is the quiet useful bit

Models B and C show your system voltage on a small red display. Engine off, a healthy battery sits around 12.4–12.7V. Running, the alternator should push it to roughly 13.7–14.7V. You do not need to memorise that — you just need to notice when the number your car normally shows starts reading lower than usual.

That is usually the first warning you get before a battery leaves you somewhere. It is a reading, not a diagnosis, but it is a reading you would otherwise never see.

The corded model at night showing its red voltage readout beside three blue-lit sockets

If the people who need power are in the back

Model C is the same unit on the end of a 2.3 ft (70 cm) cord, so the sockets can sit on the rear console instead of jutting out of the dash. Its voltmeter lives on the plug end where you can still see it. If everything you charge is up front, the plug-in models are tidier — the cord is only worth having if you actually need the reach.

The corded splitter resting near the rear seats with two phones charging, its cord running forward to the front socket

Which one to pick

All three give you the same three sockets and the same two USB ports. The only things that change are the voltmeter and the cord.

Comparison panel: model A has no voltmeter, model B adds a voltmeter, model C adds a voltmeter and a 2.3 ft cord

What it will and won't run

The whole unit is rated to 100W across all three sockets combined, with a 10A fuse inside. Phone chargers, dash cams, GPS units, tyre gauges and small 12V fans sit comfortably inside that. A tyre inflator or a 12V cooler can take most of the budget on its own, so run those one at a time and give the other sockets a rest.

The two USB ports share 5V at 3.1A total (2.1A and 1A). That keeps phones topped up steadily on a drive — it is not a fast charger, and it will not fast-charge a modern phone at its full rate.

Panel listing what is in the box, socket compatibility, the 100W total draw limit and the shared 3.1A USB output

Specifications

Sockets: 3 × 12V accessory sockets, each with its own switch and lit ring
USB: 2 × USB-A, 5V 3.1A shared (2.1A + 1A)
Input: DC 12V–24V — fits cars, SUVs, vans and trucks
Total output: 100W maximum across all sockets
Protection: 10A replaceable fuse in the plug
Voltmeter: on models B and C
Cord: 2.3 ft (70 cm) on model C; models A and B plug straight in
Unit size: 3.9 × 2.4 × 1.1 in (98 × 62 × 28 mm)
Branding: the housing carries the manufacturer's YANTU mark

A note on fit: this plugs into a standard round 12V accessory socket, the kind that used to take a cigarette lighter. It does not fit the flat two-pin outlets found in some European vehicles.